‘The 11th day, being Tuesday, we carried our instrument over the water to the Grand Signor’s Court, called the Seraglio, and there in his most stately house I began to set it up.’ This is from a diary kept by Thomas Dallam, organ maker, who travelled to Constantinople in 1599 expressly at the wish of Queen Elizabeth 1, to present and deliver an organ to the Ottoman sultan. Dallam died 360 years ago today, but the diary was not published until the late 19th century.
Dallam was born in Flixton, Lancashire, and trained as an organ maker in London, where he became a member of the Worshipful Company of Blacksmiths. This guild oversaw various trades, including organ building, and Dallam eventually attained the status of liveryman within the company.Dallam’s first notable commission came from Queen Elizabeth I who trusted him to construct an elaborate mechanical organ as a diplomatic gift for Sultan Mehmed III of the Ottoman Empire. The organ, which played music automatically and featured moving figures, was a marvel of engineering and artistry. Dallam personally accompanied the instrument on its long and perilous journey to Constantinople. During his time there, he was tasked with assembling and demonstrating the organ at the Topkapi Palace, impressing the Sultan and his court with both the instrument and his ingenuity. See Historic UK for much more on this inc the above sketch.
Upon his return to England in April 1600, Dallam married (but his wife’s name is unknown) and fathered six children. He continued his work as an organ builder, undertaking commissions across the country - Windsor, Worcester Cathedral, St John’s College, Oxford, and Eton College among others.
In 1626, Dallam was fined by the Blacksmiths’ Company for refusing the office of steward for the lord mayor’s feast, likely due to his professional commitments. He later negotiated to pay the fine in instalments to retain his livery status. His last major commission was the great double organ and choir organ for Bristol Cathedral in 1630, completed with his son Robert. Dallam died on 31 May 1665. The Oxford Dictionary of National Biography says, ‘his achievement was the consolidation of the two-manual ‘double organ’ with twelve to fourteen flue stops (without reeds, mixtures, or pedals) as the norm for English cathedrals and for larger collegiate churches during the pre-civil war period.’
Dallam is probably mostly remembered thanks to a diary he kept on his travels to the Ottoman Empire. His account provides a vivid and rare first-hand glimpse of Constantinople and the Ottoman court at the turn of the 17th century. The diary was first published in 1893 by the Hakluyt Society in Early Voyages and Travels in the Levant. I. The Diary of Master Thomas Dallam, 1599-1600. II. Extracts from the diaries of Dr. John Covel, 1670-1679, as edited by Theodore Bent. (See My dear Lord Harvey’s body for extracts from Covel’s diary.
Although many entries are dated, much of Dallam’s diary reads more like a memoir - the full text can be read at Internet Archive. Moreover, the language and spelling in the 1893 edition is rather old-fashioned and awkward to read. The following longish extract has been rendered more readable by Perplexity AI.
11 September 1599
The 11th day, being Tuesday, we carried our instrument over the water to the Grand Signor’s Court, called the Seraglio, and there in his most stately house I began to set it up. This water which we crossed from Galata to Seraglio is a stream that comes from the Black Sea, and is called the Hellespont, which separates Asia and Thrace. As it comes down by Galata, a creek of that river goes up into the country about six miles, which separates the two cities of Constantinople and Galata; they may go between them by land, but it is 12 miles, and to cross the water it is only one mile.
At every gate of the Seraglio there always sits a stout Turk, about the rank or degree of a justice of the peace, who is called a chia; nevertheless, the gates are fast shut, for no one passes in or out at their own pleasure.
Having entered within the first gate, there were placed right against the gate five great pieces of brass, with Christian arms upon them. Then we passed through very delightful walks and gardens; the walks are, as it were, hedged in with stately cypress trees, planted at an equal distance from one another, between them and behind them, smaller trees that bear excellent fruit; I think there is nothing good that is missing. The gardens I will omit writing about at this time.
The way from the first gate to the second wall is somewhat rising up a hill, between walls about a quarter of a mile and more. The gates of the second wall were also shut, but when we came to the gate, my interpreter called to those who kept it within. Though they had knowledge of our coming, yet they would not open the gates until we had called and told them our business. These gates are made all of massive iron; two men, whom they call jemeglans, opened them.
Within the first walls there are no houses but one, and that is the bustanjebasha’s house, who is captain of a thousand jemeglanes, who do nothing but keep the gardens in good order; and I am persuaded that there are none so well kept in the world. Within the second walls there are no gardens, but stately buildings; many courts paved with marble and similar stone. Every odd corner has some excellent fruit tree or trees growing in them; also there is great abundance of sweet grapes, of diverse sorts; a man may gather grapes every day of the year. In November, as I sat at dinner, I saw them gather grapes from the vines, and they brought them to me to eat. For the space of a month I dined every day in the Seraglio, and we had grapes every day after our meat; but most certainly it is true that grapes grow there continually.
Coming into the house where I was appointed to set up the present or instrument; it seemed to be rather a church than a dwelling house; to tell the truth, it was not a dwelling house, but a house of pleasure, and likewise a house of slaughter; for in that house was built one little house, very curious both within and without; for carving, gilding, good colours and varnish, I have not seen the like. In this little house, that emperor who reigned when I was there, had nineteen brothers put to death in it, and it was built for no other use but for the strangling of every emperor’s brethren.
This great house itself has in it two rows of marble pillars; the pedestals of them are made of brass, and double gilt. The walls on three sides of the house are walled but halfway to the eaves; the other half is open; but if any storm or great wind should happen, they can suddenly let fall such hangings made of cotton wool for that purpose as will keep out all kinds of weather, and suddenly they can open them again. The fourth side of the house, which is closed and joined to another house, the wall is made of porphyry, or such kind of stone that when a man walks by it he may see himself in it. Upon the ground, not only in this house, but all others that I saw in the Seraglio, we tread upon rich silk carpets, one of them as much as four or six men can carry. There are in this house neither stools, tables, or forms, only one couch of state. There is one side of it a fish pond, that is full of fish that are of diverse colours.
The same day, our Ambassador sent Mr. Paul Pinder, who was then his secretary, with a present to the Sultana, she being at her garden. The present was a Coach of six hundred pounds value. At that time the Sultana took great liking to Mr. Pinder, and afterwards she sent for him to have his private company, but their meeting was prevented.’