‘Wind more moderate, but still blowing hard from opposite shore. On every hand are traces of last night’s hurricane. [. . .] It is with little hope of ever seeing his boat again - except in separate pieces - that the captain finds his way along the road to the vineyard which was the scene of so much adventure last evening.’ This is from a diary kept by Donald Maxwell, an English writer and illustrator who died 90 years ago today. In 1904-1905, he had a small yacht built - The Griffin - and then undertook an extraordinary journey, sailing through Europe, eventually, to England.
Maxwell was born in Clapham, London, in 1877. He was the son of the Methodist minister and schoolmaster Frederick Charles Maxwell and grew up in an artistic family; his mother was also an illustrator and his younger brother Gordon Maxwell likewise became an author and artist. Maxwell studied at the Clapham School of Art, the Slade School of Fine Art and the Royal College of Art, training that underpinned both his illustrations and his career as a painter.Maxwell established himself before the First World War as a prolific travel writer and illustrator, contributing regularly to The Yachting Monthly, The Graphic and the Daily Graphic. His books, nearly all illustrated by himself, recorded journeys across Britain, Europe and the Middle East with a combination of careful observation, architectural interest and understated humour. During the First World War he served as an official Admiralty artist, later drawing on those experiences in The Last Crusade, 1914-1918 and A Dweller in Mesopotamia. He also accompanied the Prince of Wales on his tour of India in 1921-22, producing another illustrated travel narrative.
In the 1920s Maxwell became particularly associated with books celebrating the English landscape and historic towns, including his popular ‘Unknown’ county series on Kent, Sussex, Essex, Norfolk and Suffolk, together with works on London and the landscape of Thomas Hardy. His paintings of British scenery were widely admired and reproduced, several later appearing as railway carriage prints, while he also illustrated books by writers including Hilaire Belloc and Rudyard Kipling. He died on 25 July 1936. Further information is available from Wikipedia.
In 1904 Maxwell had a small yacht, The Griffin, built at Brunnadern in north-eastern Switzerland, then he hauled it overland to the headwaters of the Rhine before setting off alone on a voyage that carried him from the Swiss Alps to the Thames. The journey followed rivers, lakes and canals through Switzerland, Germany and the Netherlands before crossing the North Sea and entering the Thames estuary, eventually reaching Teddington in 1905.
The text of the diary and drawings he entered in a notebook were first published as The Log of the Griffin, by John Lane: The Bodley Head, in London in 1905. The volume was well received and established the formula Maxwell would employ throughout much of his career: a lightly worn, observant travel diary in which words and drawings carry equal weight. The work has since been reprinted in later editions and remains one of Maxwell’s best-known books, valued both as an engaging travel narrative and as a record of early twentieth-century inland waterways and landscapes.
2 October 1904
‘Schmerikon to Lachen. There is a very faint breeze from the direction of Uznach, and The Griffin, at 7.45 a.m., moves out of the harbour under mainsail only. It will be risky to carry more canvas with only one on board, for the wind is very treacherous in these waters, and it is quite common in certain states of the atmosphere to be calmed one minute and the next to be taking in sail for dear life and running with bare mast before the squall. Thus everything must be under easy control in case of emergencies, when a moment’s unreadiness would be fatal - at least for the boat.
Herr Wirth comes aboard for about half a mile, and is landed a little way out of Schmerikon, taking leave of the captain with hearty wishes for a “Gute Reise!” He stands some time looking proudly after the craft he has built, which is making a course for the middle of the lake in the hope that the breeze there will be fresher. But when the village is nearly out of sight, the wind dies down altogether, and The Griffin remains motionless on a surface unruffled. The sun is blazing, but there is a coppery colour about it that looks suspicious, and there is blue sky where the mountains ought to be.
Hour after hour passes, and there is no change. However, it is by no means unpleasant. It is a relief to be quite alone after having been for some time the centre of a sort of show, and it is not half so formidable to steer a ship through the known dangers of wind and sea as to face the unknown difficulties of a Toggenburg village.
A good opportunity, too, it proves, for drying several articles which suffered from the water last night; these are spread on the roof of the cabin, which by this time is quite hot. It is encouraging to find, also, in baling the boat, that the amount of water getting through is growing perceptibly less. The captain takes his field-glasses and has a look round, although little more than the immediate shore of the lake is visible. Astern, near the entrance to the Linth canal, the square tower of Schloss Grynau is to be seen, and to the right of that the woods of Ober-Buchberg slope down towards the water. Ahead there is a faint group of towers, probably Rapperswyl, and to the left of them stretches a long low shore of swamp land, covered with tall grasses which extend in patches out into the lake. Lachen can just be discerned over this waste, and it is there that the captain wishes to find shelter, if possible, for the night, by means of an hour or two’s paddling.
It is not until the sun has set that The Griffin enters the little harbour. It has been very slow work, mile after mile in a dead calm, along the lonely shore, in silence broken only by the monotonous noise of the paddle or the melancholy cry of some startled wild-bird.’
5 October 1904
‘Meilen, morning. Wind more moderate, but still blowing hard from opposite shore. On every hand are traces of last night’s hurricane. Branches of trees are scattered about in the road, and many of the shrubs in boxes at the entrance of the hotel are on their sides in a helpless condition. A steamer has been wrecked at Rapperswyl and another found, broken loose from her moorings, drifting about with no one on board. It is therefore hardly to be expected that The Griffin will be recognizable, considering the fact that she must have been tossed up and down on the stony shore all night. Consequently, it is with little hope of ever seeing his boat again - except in separate pieces - that the captain finds his way along the road to the vineyard which was the scene of so much adventure last evening.
Encouraged and surprised at seeing a mast still appearing over the vines, he scales the wall and climbs down to the lake. The Griffin has been washed up, half out of the water, and wedged in between two large stones. Her bow seems at first sight to have been badly knocked about. Luckily it is where sheet-iron covers it, and it proves on further inspection, although seriously dinted and devoid of paint, to have sustained no structural damage. The wood of the rudder, where it comes below the iron frame, has been torn off, but this will make little difference. If anything, there was a little too much depth before, and as the ironwork will prevent any further tearing away, it is perhaps on the whole an improvement. One of the lee-boards is somewhat bent. These injuries, together with the loss of nearly all the paint on her hull, seem to be the only changes in the craft since yesterday. The well is full, but very little water has found its way into the cabin. The carpenters of Brunnadern have done their work well indeed. Any ordinary boat, even one built for strength, would have been matchwood by now, after last night’s churning up and down on the rocks. The skin of The Griffin is of one-inch planks, each dovetailed to the other with strips of steel. The ribs are two inches thick, and eight of them have three-quarter-inch wrought-iron bars fashioned to fit them all round, so that the hull is a veritable tower of strength against a crushing force from without. Last night has proved this.
The captain calls at the house of his rescuers to thank them for their kindness and apologize for his interruption of their musical evening. He finds it rather difficult to put his sentiments into intelligible form. The part that expresses gratitude is understood at once, but the meaning of his apology for the breaking up of the domestic concert is totally missed. They take it that he is referring to some instrument, and cannot understand what it has to do with the case. Probably they think he would like to hear a tune on the mandoline. Whether this is a correct guess as to their deductions or not, the mandoline that figured in last night’s scene is brought out, and the captain is entertained to a song well sung and tolerably well accompanied, of which he shows immense appreciation. He insists on several encores, by this means making up to some extent for inability to express himself clearly, and establishing most friendly relations with the whole household.
New wine and large pears, an extraordinary alliance, are produced by way of refreshment, and the captain is presented with a card on which is inscribed - Jean Bucher, Maler, Meilen, giving his own in exchange and explaining - for his knowledge of a few words of German tells him what “maler” stands for - that he also is a painter. Encouraged by this additional bond of sympathy, his host takes him all round the house, and shows him certain paintings of his own, executed in hours of relaxation from his sterner moments of professional work. The captain makes the moderately truthful statement that he has seldom seen pictures like them, and points out that the wind has now gone down considerably, so that he ought to be starting.
Herr Bucher will not allow him to leave without first making him accept as a present an enormous pear, and he accompanies him to the spot where the unfortunate Griffin is stranded. It is a cold task, standing in the shallow water and levering the boat inch by inch further into the lake until she is afloat again.’











